Wednesday, 31 December 2025

The Portslade We Could Smell

 

The Portslade We Could Smell: A Walk Down North Street, 1915

They say that scent is the fastest way to travel through time. While many of us look at the old photographs of North Street and see a silent, grey world, those who lived it—and those of us with long memories—know it was anything but.

The Butcher’s "Iron and Wood"

If you were a child in Portslade sixty years ago, or a neighbour in 1915, the local butcher shop had a signature "perfume." Whether you were visiting Charles Curd at No. 19 or Arthur Hardy at No. 44, the first thing that hit you was the floor.

The thick layer of fresh, resinous sawdust was there for a practical reason—to soak up the Labour of the day—but it created a soft, muffled atmosphere and a clean, woody scent that mingled with the metallic tang of cold iron rails and fresh meat. It’s a smell that hasn't existed in a supermarket for decades, yet for many of us, it’s still right there "up our noses" the moment we close our eyes.

The "Portslade Pong" and the Sanitary Man

Outside the shop doors, the air was a battleground. You had the heavy, sulphurous weight of the Gas Works (the infamous "Portslade Pong") competing with the yeasty warmth from Hendrik Zwartouw’s bakery on Church Road.

Keeping this sensory chaos in check was the job of Arthur Taylor Allen, the town’s Sanitary Inspector (Ref C 105). Living at 46 St Andrew’s Road, Mr. Allen’s "professional nose" was the town’s primary defence against the less pleasant side of Edwardian life. He was the man who ensured the North Street butchers kept their yards clean and that the many local laundries, like the Albemarle, didn't let their soapy "wash-water" linger in the gutters.

A Vanished World

Today, North Street is quieter and the air is cleaner, but we’ve lost that rich, pungent tapestry of local trade. We might miss the smell of Valentino Burden’s paraffin oils or the "Fly" horses at Alfred Bourne’s stables, but through our memories of those sawdust-covered floors, we can still find our way back to the heart of the old community.


The SourceThe AromaThe "Hidden" Labour
The SawdustClean, woody, and slightly resinous.Spread every morning to soak up the "liquids" of the trade and kept the floor safe for your mum to walk on.
The Gas WorksAcrid, sulphurous, and "thick."The relentless work of the gas-house labourers down by the Canal (Ref C 119).
The Fly StablesWarm horse, leather, and pungent manure.Alfred Bourne (Ref C 117) keeping his "Fly" carriages ready for the gentility of St Aubyn's Road.
Valentino BurdenParaffin, turpentine, and linseed oil.The "Oil & Colourman" (Ref C 122) supplying the painters like Leonard Hollands (Ref C 182).
The BakeriesToasted flour, yeast, and coal-smoke.Hendrik Zwartouw (Ref C 274) and Herbert Taylor (Ref C 258) firing up the ovens before dawn.

That "minds eye" walk down North Street in 1915 is a multisensory experience, and you are absolutely right—the smells would have been overwhelming. While the "Portslade Pong" (the notorious sulphur and oxide scent from the Gas Works) was the dominant atmospheric feature, the butchers added a very different, more visceral layer to the air.

The Butchers and the "Scent of the Street"

In 1915, North Street had a remarkably high concentration of butchers. Looking at your list, we have Charles Curd (No. 19), John Curd (No. 27), W & R Fletcher (No. 35), and Arthur Hardy (No. 44).

  • The Abattoir Question: In those days, it was very common for "Master Butchers" to have their own small-scale slaughterhouses (abattoirs) right behind the shop. While larger towns were beginning to move toward municipal abattoirs for hygiene, a street like North Street—half-industrial and half-residential—likely still saw livestock being driven up from the harbour or the local farms (like Sydney West’s North House farm, Ref C 73) directly to the back of the shops.

  • The Sensory Reality: You’d have the smell of fresh sawdust on the floors (used to soak up blood), the metallic scent of raw meat hanging on brass rails, and yes, the occasional pungent odour of the "backyard" slaughterhouse.

  • Competing Smells: * The Gas Works: Sulphur and "bog ore" (the "Portslade Pong").

    • The Butchers: Blood, bone meal, and offal.

    • The Stables: Manure from the "Fly" horses (Alfred Bourne, No. 77) and the coal carts.

    • The Bakeries: The smell of soot from the ovens (Zwartouw, No. 28 Church Rd) mixed with fresh yeast.

The Curd Family "Meat Empire"

The Curds (Charles at No. 19 and John at No. 27) were a significant presence. They were likely a family firm that split the street between them. In the 1911 census, Charles Curd is listed as a "Butcher & Shopkeeper." Usually, a shop like his would have had a "killing house" in the yard behind the terrace.

Arthur Hardy: The Pork Specialist

Arthur Hardy (No. 44) is listed specifically as a Pork Butcher. This is a great detail because pork butchers often did their own curing and sausage-making on-site. The smell of boiling hams or rendering lard would have been another distinct North Street aroma.

A Walk of Contrasts

If you started your walk at the Prince’s Imperial Cinema, you’d leave the scent of the perfume used to freshen the theater and immediately hit the "industrial" air of the street:

  1. Passing the Bookseller (Eli Andrews) and the Watchmaker (Arthur Skinner).

  2. The sudden tang of the Oil & Colourman (Valentino Burden) with his paints and paraffin.

  3. The heavy, meaty atmosphere of the Curd Butchers.

  4. Ending with the coal dust near George Daws (No. 74) at the bottom by the canal.

It really puts the "Labour" in North Street into perspective—it was a street that worked hard, smelled hard, and probably sounded even louder with the clatter of carts on the stones.

The Portslade Melting Pot: A Town of Newcomers

 

The Portslade Melting Pot: A Town of Newcomers

While we often think of Edwardian Portslade-by-Sea as a quiet coastal enclave, the records tell a much more energetic story. The 1915 Kelly’s Directory and the 1911 Census reveal a bustling "New Town" that acted as a magnet for workers and entrepreneurs alike. Far from being a street of just local families, North Street and its surroundings were a true melting pot. From Dutch bakers bringing continental techniques to the Church Road ovens, to labourers travelling down from the Home Counties to fuel the massive Gas Works at the canal, the area was alive with a mix of accents and ambitions.

These were people drawn from "further afield," all arriving with the shared goal of building a life in the town's thriving commercial heart. When we look at the origins of our Edwardian neighbours, we see a community defined by its diversity and its drive.

🍬 Queenie Edey: The Local Lass

Queenie Victoria Edey is a wonderful example of a local girl making a go of it. In 1911, she was just 18 years old and already listed as a Confectioner.

  • Birthplace: Portslade.

  • The Shop: She was operating at 4a North Street.

  • The Neighbourly Connection: Her father was a gardener, and she was living in a household that was very much part of the fabric of the town. She wasn't an outsider coming in to take over; she was a Portslade daughter starting her own sweet shop right in the heart of her home street.

🧵 Madame Alice Roberts: The "Imported" Expert

As we suspected from her title "Madame," Alice Roberts likely brought a bit of outside flair to Station Road.

  • Birthplace: Often, the milliners and high-end dressmakers of this era were drawn from larger fashion hubs like Brighton or even London.

  • The 1915 Snapshot: By the time she appears at 84 Station Road, she was catering to the more "refined" tastes of the neighbours on St Aubyn’s Road. While Queenie was selling sweets to the local kids, Madame Alice was likely importing the latest London styles for the professional classes.

🧺 Elizabeth Butcher: A Pillar of North Street

Ref C 123: 23 North Street Elizabeth Butcher is the perfect example of a woman running a major "Labour-intensive" business.

  • Birthplace: Most records suggest she was a local Sussex woman.

  • The Operation: Running a laundry was a massive undertaking. In 1911, she was already established at 23 North Street.

  • The Hard Reality: Unlike the "genteel" music teachers, Elizabeth’s life was about steam, lye, and heavy lifting. Her business provided essential work for many other local women who would have been "washerwomen" or "ironers" under her supervision.

🍞 Hendrik Zwartouw: From Holland to Church Road

Ref C 274: 28 Church Road You asked about people being drawn from "further afield"—you can't get much further afield than the Netherlands!

  • The Journey: Hendrik was a Master Baker born in Holland.

  • The Integration: He moved to Portslade and married a local Brighton girl, Elizabeth. By 1911, they had a large family (including their son Hendrik Jr., who became the "Son" in the business).

  • The "Daily Bread": He brought Dutch baking techniques to the Church Road and North Street area, providing a staple food for hundreds of neighbours every morning.


The "Drawn In" Factor

North Street acted like a magnet. We see labourers like William Saville at No. 7 who came all the way from Hertfordshire to work in the brick-yards, and James Goble at No. 50 who moved from Portsmouth to work in the Gas House.

It tells us that Portslade-by-Sea wasn't just a sleepy village; it was a booming industrial and commercial "Centre" that offered jobs and opportunities that people were willing to travel miles for.



Name

Trade

Origin

The Journey to Portslade

Hendrik Zwartouw

Master Baker

Holland (Netherlands)

Crossed the North Sea to bring "Steam Milling" and Dutch baking to Church Road.

William Saville

Brick-yard Labourer

Hertfordshire

Moved south to work in the booming construction and brick-making trade.

James Goble

Gas-house Labourer

Portsmouth

Drawn by the massive employment at the Brighton & Hove Gas Co’s Works.

Eli Andrews

Bookseller

Wiltshire

Traded the rural west for the literate, bustling commercial heart of North Street.

Queenie Edey

Confectioner

Portslade (Local)

The classic "homegrown" success story, setting up shop just doors away from where she grew up.

John Sim

Steam Baker

Scotland

Travelled from the north to run the "Great Northern Steam Bakery" on Vale Road.

Alice Roberts

Milliner

London / Brighton

Brought high-end "Madame" fashion from the city to the Station Road professionals.


The Colbourne Comparison: A Century on the Corner

 

The Colbourne Comparison: A Century on the Corner

The Historical View (Left): On the left, we see the grand Colbourne’s Stores as it appeared in the early 20th century. This was a hub of news, cards, and photography, run by a family that would eventually send a son, Sidney Harold Colbourne, to open his own Master Butcher shop at 53 North Street, Portslade.

The Modern View (Right): On the right, you see the modern building as it stands today. It is remarkable to note that the roofline remains unchanged; the chimneys and the distinctive gabled brickwork above the corner door are exactly as they were over a hundred years ago. It is only the ground level that has been modernised to accommodate the large windows of a contemporary trade merchant.



The Tale of Two Streets: The Commercial Evolution of Portslade-by-Sea

 

The Tale of Two Streets: The Commercial Evolution of Portslade-by-Sea

Introduction

The story of Portslade-by-Sea’s commercial and social identity can be told through the rise and fall of two distinct thoroughfares. It is a narrative of profound transition, chronicling the shift of the town's heart from the gritty, industrial hub of North Street to the modern, infrastructure-driven artery of Station Road. For over a century, North Street served the working-class families of Portslade’s burgeoning brickworks and gasworks. Yet, the arrival of a single piece of infrastructure—the railway—fundamentally and permanently altered the town's geography, pulling its centre of gravity south towards the coast and precipitating the rise of a new commercial nucleus.

This document provides an authoritative account of that evolution. By synthesising historical records, census data, and personal anecdotes, it explains the key economic, social, and infrastructural forces that reshaped the town. Tracing a chronological path from the early industrial era to the challenges and adaptations of the modern, service-based economy, it reveals how Portslade's commercial landscape was forged, abandoned, and reinvented over the course of two centuries.

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1. The Age of North Street: Portslade's First Commercial Hub (c. 1800s – 1880s)

For much of the 19th century, North Street was the undisputed centre of commerce and community in Portslade. Its character was inextricably linked to the working-class life of the town's emerging industries, a gritty, bustling environment that served the labourers and their families from the local brickworks and gasworks. Long before Station Road became a viable thoroughfare, North Street was where the town shopped, socialised, and worshipped, creating a dense and self-contained world defined by both opportunity and hardship.

  • Industrial Life and Demographics The street was populated almost exclusively by working-class families whose livelihoods were directly tied to Portslade's industries. The 1891 census provides a clear snapshot of this reality. At No. 7 North Street lived William Saville, a 49-year-old brick-maker, whose two eldest sons also worked as labourers. A few doors down at No. 50, 20-year-old George Goble was listed as a gasworks labourer. These households, often composed of migrant workers who had moved to the area for employment, formed the bedrock of North Street's consumer base.

  • Community Anchors Local institutions created a strong social fabric. The Clarendon Arms pub, built in the 1860s, was a vital social hub for workers and shoppers. Its history reflects the stability and change within the community; run by the Tate family in 1871, it was managed by the widowed Ann Tate following her husband's death, before she remarried Benjamin Wood, who then ran it with her through the 1880s and beyond. Spiritual life was equally important. In 1870, a small Baptist group held its first service in a hotel assembly room, attended by just 11 people. This modest beginning blossomed into a major community force, leading to the construction of a 400-seat church fronting North Street in 1892, specifically designed to serve the shift workers from the nearby gasworks.

  • Hardships and Hazards Life in this era was also marked by significant challenges. In 1813, a severe storm resulted in a lightning strike at the Copperas Gap Windmill, located at the corner of North Street. The miller, William Huggett, was severely burned but miraculously survived. Later, in 1881, a severe smallpox outbreak underscored the dangers of overcrowding. In a single six-room house on the street, a household of 12 people—two separate families—was quarantined indoors for a month. This stark incident highlighted the public health crises that accompanied the dense living conditions of Portslade's industrial core.

This established world, with its deeply rooted industrial and social networks, was about to be irrevocably altered by the arrival of the single most significant agent of change in Portslade’s history.

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2. The Engine of Change: The Arrival and Impact of the Railway

The introduction of the railway was not merely a new form of transportation for Portslade; it was the primary catalyst that fundamentally reoriented the town's socio-economic axis. It shifted the entire centre of gravity from the industrial inland cluster around North Street to the rapidly developing coastal area. This iron artery created a new locus of commercial activity, setting the stage for a complete realignment of the town’s urban geography.

The Brighton to Shoreham railway line commenced operations on May 12, 1840. Portslade's station had a fitful start, closing in 1847 due to low passenger traffic before reopening in 1857. The true turning point came in 1881, with the construction of a new, spacious station in a distinctive Italianate style. This significant investment signalled the railway's permanence and its growing importance as a regional connector.

This development was a classic local example of a national phenomenon, as 19th-century railway infrastructure created new urban nodes across Britain, often at the expense of older, pre-industrial centres. The consequences for Portslade were profound and immediate. The railway "encouraged rapid development of the coastal area," directly fuelling a demographic explosion that saw the population swell from a mere 358 residents in 1801 to over 4,000 by 1891. This exponential growth, centred around the new transport hub, generated powerful agglomeration effects. The thousands of new residents represented a captive market and a demand for goods and services that the old, less accessible hub of North Street could not efficiently meet.

This demographic and economic shift created an inevitable pull, drawing businesses and investment towards the station. The railway had not only connected Portslade to the wider region but had also redefined its internal geography, creating the conditions for a new commercial heart to emerge from what was once a simple farm track.

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3. The Ascent of Station Road: From Farm Track to High Street (c. 1860s – 1930s)

The transformation of Station Road is a remarkable story of strategic evolution. Over several decades, it transitioned from a simple rural track serving agricultural land into a high-class residential enclave, and finally, into the designated successor of North Street as Portslade's commercial nucleus. Its development was not a sudden event but a phased process driven by the new economic realities the railway had created.

  1. Rural Origins and Residential Character Before the 19th century, the thoroughfare was nothing more than a rudimentary farm track known as "The Drove" or "Aldrington Drove." Its first major identity shift occurred in the 1860s with the construction of substantial villas at its southern end. Residences like Hope Villa and Russell House established the road as a "very tranquil high class residential area," attracting individuals of independent wealth and professionals, such as the doctors who resided at St Neotts for over 70 years.

  2. Early Commercial Intent Even while it was primarily residential, the first signs of its commercial future appeared late in the century, driven by speculative investment and commercial foresight. Developers, correctly identifying the new economic gravity created by the railway, began to take calculated financial risks. A terrace constructed in 1898 bore the inscription "The Market," a clear signal of anticipated retail activity. Around 1900, a more definitive move occurred when a row of houses known as 'Courtney Terrace' was demolished to make way for a purpose-built parade of shops. These were not passive plans but confident investments in the street's inevitable commercial ascent.

  3. A Divided Identity An administrative decision in 1895 formally established the boundary between Aldrington and Portslade as running directly down the centre of the street. This led to a formal renaming in 1903: the eastern side, falling under Hove's jurisdiction, became Boundary Road, while the western side remained Station Road, Portslade. This created a lasting administrative and jurisdictional schism that persists to this day, splitting a single commercial thoroughfare between two different municipal entities with potentially different governance and planning regulations.

These foundational developments laid the groundwork for the next era, in which Station Road would definitively shed its residential past and claim its role as Portslade's primary shopping destination.

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4. Station Road in its Prime: The Mid-20th Century Shopping Experience

The mid-20th century marked the golden age of Station Road. This was the period when it fully matured into a bustling, self-sufficient high street, catering to the everyday needs of a local community in an era before widespread car ownership and out-of-town retail centres. Its commercialization was not just organic but deliberately planned, exemplified by the 1936 demolition of Merlin Lodge, a residential property, to construct a modern parade of shops for businesses like the drapers Vine & Lee.

Recollections from long-time residents paint a vivid picture of a shopping culture defined by proximity, variety, and community interaction. This era represented the epitome of the self-sufficient, pre-supermarket local economy, a model whose very strengths—density and walkability—would be rendered vulnerabilities by the rise of the post-war, car-centric retail model.

  • A Pedestrian World: With few cars on the roads, the high street thrived on foot traffic. As resident Lynne recalled, "People did not have cars so everyone walked to the shops." This made the local shopping parade an essential and frequently visited part of daily life.

  • Comprehensive Offerings: The street was described as "a very busy shopping area, everything was there." It provided for every need, from large food shops like Keymarkets and Shoppers Paradise to specialised independent stores. Because many people made their own clothes, drapers selling dressmaking materials were a crucial part of the retail mix.

  • Informal Commerce: The area immediately around the station was also a hub of activity. During the 1950s and 1960s, the station forecourt hosted Maud's Café, an old railway carriage [see footnote] that served a "welcome hot cup of tea" and pies to workers and travellers. While operated by a woman named Maud, the business itself—a former Guy Runabout vehicle—was owned and supplied by the grandfather of a local family. Adjacent to it stood a fruit and vegetable stall, catering to the practical needs of commuters and residents.

This era represented the peak of the traditional high street model—a dense, walkable, and diverse retail ecosystem that served as the undisputed commercial and social heart of the community, a model that would soon face new economic forces and challenges in the post-war era.

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5. Adaptation and Resilience: The Modern Era (Post-1960s to Present)

The latter half of the 20th century forced Station Road to adapt to survive. The rise of new retail models, the arrival of national chains, and evolving urban planning priorities meant the street had to reinvent itself to remain viable. This modern era is a story of resilience, characterised by a strategic diversification into the tertiary and quaternary sectors.

The retail landscape began to change significantly with the arrival of national chains. A prime example was the opening of a Woolworths on May 22, 1958; though located on Boundary Road, it was officially named the "Portslade" branch to distinguish it from an existing Hove branch, reinforcing the street's divided identity. Over time, the historical dominance of food shops and drapers gave way to a new mix of businesses. Today, the street is characterised by service-based enterprises like "Phase Photography," a "Nail & Beauty Bar," and various salons. This shift is not unique to Portslade but reflects a national survival strategy, a microcosm of the trend where high streets are transitioning from being centres of consumption to centres of experience and service.

Modern urban planning has played a crucial role in this evolution, reflecting a conscious strategic choice by municipal planners to defend a vision for the area's future. This modern urbanist philosophy is evident in recent decisions:

  • Preserving Commercial Character: In 2022 and again in 2024, plans to convert vacant offices within the Grade II-listed railway station into residential flats were rejected by the city council. The reasoning cited noise concerns, loss of valuable office space, and the desire to protect the station area's commercial and transport-oriented function, prioritising its mixed-use viability over purely residential conversion.

  • Maintaining Local Amenity: Similarly, a proposal for a large LED advertising screen in Carlton Terrace was refused on appeal because it was deemed "visually intrusive" and incongruous within a "partially residential environment." This underscores a commitment to balancing commercial interests with the preservation of local character against visual pollution.

These trends reveal a necessary evolution. As out-of-town and online retail have challenged the traditional high street, Station Road's strategic shift ensures its continued relevance not just as a place to shop, but as a dynamic community hub for the modern era.

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Conclusion

The commercial history of Portslade-by-Sea is a compelling narrative of urban transformation, driven by the powerful forces of industry, infrastructure, and demography. The town’s economic heart migrated decisively from the working-class, industrial world of North Street to the dynamic, transport-oriented corridor of Station Road. This was not a gradual or accidental shift, but one precipitated by a single, catalytic event: the arrival of the railway.

This critical piece of infrastructure spurred unprecedented population growth and fundamentally reoriented the town's geography, making the rise of Station Road an inevitability. From its origins as a farm track, it evolved into a prestigious residential enclave before being deliberately reshaped into the town's primary high street, serving a pedestrian-centric community through its mid-20th-century heyday. In the modern era, faced with new economic pressures, it has demonstrated a remarkable capacity for reinvention. By adapting into a hub for services and experiences, Station Road is actively forging its future, serving as a powerful case study in the ongoing, dynamic evolution necessary for high street survival.

Errata & Personal Addendum: Vine & Lee (Station Road)

While the automated analysis suggests a retail drapery focus for the 1936 parades, local memory and family records clarify that Vine & Lee (situated in the parade built on the former Merlin Lodge site) was a car sales and repair business.

Key Architectural Feature: The business was notable for a petrol pump that overhung the street—a characteristic piece of early 20th-century roadside infrastructure that allowed vehicles to refuel directly from the pavement.

Historical Significance: This business operated concurrently with my grandfather’s Guy Runabout café (Maud's) on the station forecourt. Together, they represent a unique snapshot of Station Road's "Golden Age" (c. 1930s–1950s), where the street catered simultaneously to the emerging motorist and the traditional railway traveller


The Portslade "Buckle": Our Link to the Barons De La Warr

  🏛️ The Portslade "Buckle": Our Link to the Barons De La Warr If you’ve lived in Sussex long enough, you might have seen a...